Quebrada de Humahuaca - Argentina

The Quebrada de Humahuaca is a mountain valley that has been in use as a cultural route between the Andean highlands and the plains for over 11000 years. The valley, carved out by the Rio Grande, is ca. 150 km. long. The river is dry in winter but flows copiously through the Quebrada in the summer.

Numerous tracks, roads and settlements testify to the civilizations that once lived here: hunter-gatherers, indigenous Omaguacas, Inca, Spanish and the Argentine Republic. Due to its strategic position it has been colonized by both the Inca and the Spanish, who were after the trade, minerals and agricultural products. It also has been a stage for many battles of the Argentine War of Independence. 

Quebrada de Humahuaca, is a picturesque narrow valley located in north-west Argentina, in the state of Jujuy. The region has always been a crossroads for economic, social and cultural communication. It is skirted by Altiplano in the west and north, the Sub-Andean hills in the east, and the Valles Templados in the south.

Situated at the foot of the valley is the village of Maimará, and one of the highlights of the place is the Grande River or Río Grande. The river generally remains dry during the winter, but it is full to the brim during summer. The area attracts a large number of tourists from Argentina as well as other countries of the world.

The primary attraction of the valley is its 200 archaeological sites, and the valley is a haven for historians. All these historical sites are pre-Hispanic and pre-Incan sites and are symptomatic of the pre-Hispanic civilization of the region. Some of the important sites of historical importance in the valley are Uquia, Chulin, Coctaca and Penas Blancas. There are also other important sites in the region that include the Regional Archaeological Museum and the Independent Monument.

                             

So this is the first review of the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Quite remarkable, as it is well on the beaten track for both overland South America travellers (it's close to the Bolivian-Argentine border) and regular Argentinian holidaymakers. Think of a sanitized version of the Andes, in a Colorado/Arizona landscape. I stayed here for four days, both in Purmamarca and Tilcara, and drove up and down the valley in a rental car. 

The Quebrada has a relatively high population density, in which it differs from the many other valleys around Salta. The town of Purmamarca (population: 360) is quiet though: earthen roads, low adobe buildings, the smell of wood smoke in the streets in the evening and early morning, scarce street lighting. It's a great little town to stay in. Its major landmark is the Seven Coloured Hill, where the town is exactly located in front of. The natural scenery is one of the major assets of the Quebrada de Humahuaca in general.

It wasn't put on the World Heritage List for its natural beauty however. It's a 'cultural route', used by everyone from hunter-gatherers to independent Argentina. The tracks of the early groups aren't very easy to spot for the casual visitor. Most of what is visibly left dates from the Spanish colonial times and later. 

Driving north, the first historical building you encounter is the Posta de Hornillos. This is a 16th century post for travellers to rest, modelled after the oriental karavanserais. It is now turned into a museum about the history of travel along these roads.

Next is the very white Capilla de San Francisco de Paula, in the town of Uquia. It has a large golden altar and was constructed in the mudejar style that so often is seen here.

Even more north is Humahuaca. This is a relatively large town now catering mostly to backpackers on a stopover. One can almost feel the Bolivian atmosphere here in the streets, it's that far north. Humahuaca is home to the lovely ruin of the Torre de Santa Barbara (once a fort, now moved), and an enormous Heroes of the Independence Monument that dwarves everything else in town.

Besides historical importance, the valley is also renowned for its spectacular natural beauty. It is a unique cultural landscape in the world. The indigenous towns of the zone conserve religious beliefs, rites, celebrations, art, agricultural music and techniques that are a living patrimony. You can enjoy the sights of fascinating natural wonders along with breathtaking natural sceneries. The beauty of the place is at its pinnacle during early mornings as the colors look more vivid and there is no wind.

Like I already wrote, the pre-Hispanic sites are more difficult to find. I found that I had to make an effort and braved a visit to Coctaca on my own. Coctaca is mentioned as one of the very few specific places in the nomination files. It supposedly has spectacular terraced agricultural lands that show all about how farming locally was and is done. The only thing I noticed however was an extremely difficult unpaved road to drive, lots of cactuses and a town that seemed uninhabited. There were some stone demarcations visible between the fields, but I didn't really get where to look at. You should really hire a local guide to visit here.



A more spiced up pre-Hispanic remain is the Pucará of Tilcara. A Pucará was a fortified village, in which the inhabitants defended themselves against the many invaders (and neighbours). The one at Tilcara is almost completely restored. This didn't make ICOMOS happy, but I enjoyed my visit a lot. The Quebrada de Humahuaca (as most of the cultural landscapes on the list) lacks major sights and I'm glad that Tilcara at least made an effort to make its precolumbian history come alive. The houses and communal buildings were made of dry stone. The relatively large settlement, on top of a hill, is largely complete. There are explanatory signs in Spanish and English too. 

Quebrada de Humahuaca covers an area of 1,500 km.

It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site on 2 July, 2003.

The name quebrada means a deep valley.

Quebrada de Humahuaca is located north of Jujuy. You can take a flight from Buenos Aires to Jujuy. Jujuy has a good network of public transportation. Thus you can easily reach Quebrada de Humahuaca, once you reach Jujuy.

Spring season (September to November) is the best time to visit Quebrada de Humahuaca as you would encounter neither the scorching heat of summer nor the coldness of winter.

Near by Attractions:  Serranias del Hornocal, Monumento a los Heroes de la Independencia, Iglesia de la Candelaria y San Antonio, and Santa Cruz y San Francisco.